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Bare Root Planting Guide for trees and shrubs

Sit back, relax, and watch your plant grow. (you still have to care for it, though)

It can be enriched with just a little hard work.

Perennial Plants

Are you interested in planting some bare root perennial plants? Or do you even know what a bare root perennial plant is? A bare root perennial is a perennial plant grown in the ground and not a pot dug up the day of shipment. Usually, their roots are placed in a burlap bag that keeps them reasonably moist for transport. But do you know how to plant them? Here are some simple instructions on planting them. Spacing needs to be 12" to 4 feet

1. Select the area- Determine where your flower bed, hedge, and a small natural area will be in the first Question. Once this has been determined, you should note where you want plants and those areas' qualities. Some of the qualities that should be noted are sunlight, water levels, ph levels, and the type of soil there.

2. Selecting a Plant- Next, you should do some research on what plants can live and thrive in those conditions. Then from that list of plants, a plant can be selected that you like the most.

3. Shopping- The third thing to do is to shop for the cheapest plant you can find. If you do, you may be getting ripped off, so spend some time shopping around. Once you find the cheapest, buy it.

4. Checking the Plant- As soon as you get your plant, check it. The plant may have signs that it is unhealthy. Signs include insect infestation, dead limbs, large amounts of yellowing leaves, and breaks in the plant.

5. Planting- To plant your new perennials, you must first dig a hole twice the size of the plant's root ball. Insert the plant and fertilizer (it should have fertilizer added) and fill in. Immediately water the plant.

6. Watch your plant grow and thrive in its new home. (Don't forget to water regularly)

By following these few simple steps, you can have great perennials to enjoy yearly in no time.

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Does your yard or flowerbed need some ground cover? Or are you planning a new flower bed that will use groundcovers' ability to spread? Either way, have you considered using a bare root ground cover? A bare root cover is a ground cover plant grown in a field instead of in a flower bed. These plants are dug up right before they are sent to your house. The roots are wrapped in a burlap sack to help retain moisture. Do you know how to plant these kinds of plants? Here are some usable instructions.

First, you must determine where your plant or new flower bed is going. It means to also take in the fact that there may be underground wires or pipes in the area. You should also take in the qualities of the area, which include sunlight amounts (shade, total, partial), water amounts, soil ph levels, and the kind of soil there.

Picking a ground cover-Then, take the qualities that you have organized for the area of your plant, and use them to narrow down what plants will live in that kind of zone. Once you know what plants will live there, you can pick which one you like the most.

Shopping-Wait! Don't just buy the first plant you see! Go shopping around; look for who has the lowest prices on your selected plant.

Getting your plant- Once you've got your plant, check it for dead spots. The things that mean a damaged plant include insect infestation, dead parts, severely yellowing leaves, and other severe signs. If any of these are present, contact your dealer.

Planting your plant: To plant your new ground cover, you must dig a hole twice the size of the plant's root ball. Then insert the plant into the hole, add fertilizer and fill in. Immediately water the plant.

Please sit back and marvel as your plant thrives in its new home.

wetland plants

Do you know how to plant a bare root wetland plant? A wetland plant is a plant that is either grown in the water or around the edge of the water (swamps are included. A "bare root" plant is a plant that has been grown in a field or this case, a pond or such and dug out of it the day of shipment. These plants are a bit more challenging but can be done. Here are some simple instructions.

First, you must determine where your pond, wetland area, or individual plant will be placed. The area you determine should be surveyed for specific qualities, such as water levels (if it is just a wetland), soil moisture, sunlight, ph levels, and other contributing factors.

Selecting your plant: The next thing to do is to select what plants can grow in that specific area. From that list of plants, you should pick a plant to buy.

Go Shopping! - Make sure you don't just go and buy the first plant you see. There are (more than likely) hundreds of stores that sell the plant. Look around until you find a good deal (check out TN Nursery for some good deals). Then buy it.

Plant health-When is getting your plant; you should thoroughly inspect the plant for damage. The list of damage includes:

  • Insect infestations.
  • Breaks or tears in the plant.
  • Massive amounts of yellowing.
  • Other severe damage signs.

Planting: For wetland plants, dig a hole twice the size of the plant's root ball. The plant should be placed in the hole with fertilizer and filled in water immediately afterward. For pond plants, a simple burying of the root into the mud will be sufficient.

Sit back and relax, and watch your plants grow. (That is if you maintain them)

Planting Live Stakes

Live stakes,

 like all plants, need soil, water, and sunlight. The best species for live stakes are willows and red osier dogwood because they are easy to grow and have excellent root strength. Black cottonwood can also be used, but cuttings from this species do not grow as consistently well. Live stakes should be planted in areas that will remain moist throughout the growing season, such as along the water line on streambanks or in wetlands. Follow the instructions below to make and plant your live stakes.

Cut stakes from long, straight branches taken off the parent plant. Typically, life stakes should be between 18 and 24 inches long and at least three-eighths of an inch in diameter. Follow the guidelines suggested in the ethics of plant collection (below).

Make a straight cut at the narrow end of the stake (toward the tip of the branch). At the thicker end (toward the trunk), cut the branch at an angle to make a point. This way, you will know which end is up, and it will be easier to drive the stakes into the ground. It is essential to plant live stakes with the right end in the ground; otherwise, they will die.

Remove the leaves and small branches from the stakes as soon as possible after cutting them to keep the stakes from drying out.

Dip the top (blunt cut, narrow end) 2-3 inches of the stakes in latex paint immediately after they are cut. The paint marks which end is up and seals the exposed cut end and helps prevent drying and cracking. You can also use different paint colors to color different code species of cuttings, planting times, and other treatments. The paint will also make the stakes visible once planted so people won't trip over them.

Plant your stakes within 24 hours for the best results. In the meantime, keep them moist and wet in buckets or wet burlap sacks. Please keep them in the shade on hot days until you plant them.

Soak or dip the bottom ends of cuttings in a solution of plant rooting hormone before planting to speed up growth. (you don't need to use rooting hormone for most willows or red osier dogwood. These species have incipient root buds ready to go and root immediately.)

Drive the stakes into the streambank or wetland soil at least one foot deep (the deeper, the better). Leave three to six inches above the ground surface so they can sprout leaves. At first, the stakes will survive by rooting, but eventually, leaves will sprout from the exposed end of the stakes.

Drive stakes into the ground with a rubber mallet to avoid damaging them. Use a planting bar or length of rebar to start the hole in hard soils.

Use long stakes at least one-half inch in diameter when planting in riprap (rocks). The longer, thicker stakes will survive heating and dry better than smaller diameter cuttings.

Use longer stakes and leave one-foot sticking above the ground if the stake is shaded by surrounding vegetation. If a willow stake gets too much shade, it will drop its new leaves and die. If the area you are planting will be heavily shaded, use a more shade-tolerant riparian species such as salmonberry. Bear in mind. However, that salmonberry stems dry out more quickly.

Keep the whips! (The slender twigs snipped off during stake cutting.) Whips will grow if they are planted in very moist areas at the edges of streams and wetlands. Push them into the ground as far as they will go without breaking.

The best time to plant live stakes is during the dormant season. In western Washington, this is roughly from the beginning of November through the end of February, although live stakes planted in October and March will also flourish. Live stakes can also be planted during the growing season, especially at sites that will remain moist, although survival rates will be lower. Plant live stakes whenever you can; any that die can easily be replaced during the dormant season.

Source of Information on Bare Root Planting



Silver Maple Live Stakes - TN Nursery

Silver Maple Live Stakes

Silver Maple Live Stakes are young, rooted cuttings or branches from the silver maple tree acer saccharinum used for streambank stabilization and erosion control, known for their rapid growth and ability to establish quickly in wetland areas. If you are struggling to keep erosion to a minimum, you may want to consider buying Silver Maple live stakes. They are the branches or cuttings of rooted plants that can be placed near a river or marsh or in a watery area itself, depending on your needs. Silver Maple Live Stakes Are Noted for Their Rapid Growth Perhaps the best reason to get them is that they will grow at a rapid rate, which means that they can provide relief from erosion in a short period of time. This is because the roots will anchor into the soil and prevent it from being washed away. If you live on a slope, they can prevent the land from sliding away because they will have too strong a grip on it. The Live Stakes Are Hardy Another reason to get these items as opposed to planting the trees themselves is that they are abundant and can be collected during most of the year. The reason why they are so plentiful is because you don't actually need to cut a tree down. Instead, you just get the small part of it that you need and watch them grow on their own. Reclaim the Land in an Eco-friendly Manner With These The use of them means that you don't need to spend a lot of time or money on soils or other items that typically help a plant grow. Instead, you simply put it in soil that already exists and watch it grow. Taking such a natural approach can help improve or retain the existing outdoor air quality as there is no need for machines or additives like manure that create foul odors. TN Nursery Offers Plants That Can Live For Over 400 Years In addition to growing rapidly, the resulting tree can outlast for over 100 years if planted properly. Even if it doesn't have the best environment, it can still survive for several decades. Ultimately, you will have something that will help to protect your property for the rest of your life and may protect your property for generations to come.

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